Відео

Very nice. I have a laser engraver and I did some PCBs by painting it with permanent marker and laser the tracks away. then acid and it's done! Like what you were trying to do with the resin directly on the PCB. Also works very well and gets very fine results... depending on the laser's resolution. But 90 seconds for a "big" board is faster than the 4 minutes of my highest resolution small board... but anyway, is also fast that order it from China! The best solution, in my case was to "laser" the circuit first to have a reference for the holes, drill the holes, clean the paint and redo the laser without holes in the drawing, to make sure tiny misalignments in the drill press get the copper to the hole, and only then, acid the extra copper away! Also, with the holes already done, it's very easy to alight a two layer design.

the temu 3d printer was printed using a temu 3d printer oh my god they going to fill up the universe

i cannot get anything to stick to the h1h one that i got. I have washed it with soap and water and dried then IPA on it, 99%. I have tried different heat settings and bed settings. I am trying not to use glue sticks on this. I glue the only way. If anyone has any suggestions please reply to this. Thank you.

I'm getting close to pulling the trigger on one of these, mainly because I think I can get better print quality with it compared to more traditional stepper-driven systems? I'm only worried about the beauty of my prints rather than speed - surface finish is everything for my application. What do you think are the chances of the final product meeting my needs? I'm patient and willing to work with Peopoly as needed...

what about ABS?

i want to make a small 3d printer can you help

that color makes me think it's a 3d printed 3dprinter, thank you for the review

It really helps to move the part around, make sure the clip that is grabbing the part has the same or worst electrical conductivity as the paint and starting with a low current

автор: корпус массивный я: ага, ага😅

FL Sun , drunk french edition.😢 Total waste of money 😞💰

How much pigment vs resin (ratio/perecent)... especially for that shade of Bors Bora Blue?

Iv've never used it

thx for the test

You can use multiple walls instead of infill to create a solid part. The internal structures can also add to the effect if diffusion is what you want. Use something to whack your spatula when removing prints.

.. is this your "exit strategy"

This video illustrates how much integrity and objectivity Tom has. Thanks Tom

12:50 강도 결과

Has Thomas got healed from extreme case of the Klipper Toxicity Allergy?

They are good for blind holes

btter than mkb4k

nice video... What Red filament is that?

For non-English speakers, it would be nice if you were to include a picture alongside the inserts when showing the 3D print with the threaded inserts already mounted. It can be difficult to keep track of which insert is which.

After realizing this is more than capable of printing TPU, wonder what improvements can be made. Just for fun anyone got one of these and modelled the axis carriages? I came across a load of free (so zero cost) LM5UU might be LM4UU which look like might be a perfect fit for the axis tubes... so might be interesting to replace the white carriages with something printed out that used alternative bearings so the slop is reduced.

So, how did it compare to the Mk3s? It was mentioned at the start, then forgotten and as an owner of two mk3s, I would really like to know

it says that this printer is "for Household Education & Students". So just calling it the cheapest 3D printer as if it's meant to be in the same category is disingenuous at the very least.

That benchy looked better that my first Ender3 benchy 3 years ago

Hello there Tom, Have you seen QiDi Max-3? I'm looking at that versus the Voron 2.4. What are your thoughts on these printers?

Creative video, thanks :)

Fascinating.

Really interesting video content thanks.

your price points are wildly unrealistic. some of those prices should be doubled and some should be quadrupled

That print looks excellent for 70buck's. A bit of acetone or sand paper smooths all that out, and honestly to print some small car plastic bits, that's exactly what i may need lol. A few upgraded bits for rigidity and better stepper motors and it's all good. Those stepper motors can't handle the voltage given to them

The included PLA is horrible. Take a caliber and measure the width at multimple points and you'll see how bad it is. Put some good quality PLA in and it should print much better.

my solder iron 6$ is fine

The secret is labmetal..spray that on and it should work....

My pinecil heats from 0 degrees to 350 in about 3 seconds flat with a 24v/5a DC barrel power supply that I got for 15$ It's the best soldering iron that I've ever used. Also I found tips for it on aliexpress for $1.30 each that work exactly the same as the $40 set i bought.

I've been expecting hotends to get smaller over time, but in the last 7 years they haven't made much progress in doing that. I think hotends will become more like 3d pend in the future... and by that, I mean super lightweight with higher flow rates. I think that might be what helps them print faster in the future. With a better controlled heating element, there would no need for a large heat block or large heat sink/fans... so the entire assembly could be made much lighter and could move much faster. It would also decrease vibrations and ghosting (from the frame flexing and vibrations/frequency), which could also lead to lighter 3d printers that won't need to be built as heavy or as durable (and if the frames are still built as solid it would probably increase quality).

My 2014 Chevy Sonic has like a tray on the dash where I put change, but the coins fall out every time I make a sudden stop or turn so I 3D scanned the tray and designed a new one with higher walls that curved in so no change falls out. I've been using it for a year now and it works great. I made a video on my build too.

You should be able to do this with marlin Gcode and a SD card. The code in marlin has a g code to load a program from a SD card and start printing it. With some simple edits to the end of your Gcode inside your slicer you should be able to handle this with just a base printer

Ender 3 is about the same price

This is the 3d printer you get from a Kinder egg.

I've been soldering for about two decades by now. The pinecil is by far my favourite soldering iron i've used in all those years and I've come across many in different makerspaces, electronics labs and workplaces. The biggest advantge of the pinecil is in its name: it's not much bigger than a pencil and you can always carry it with you EDC-style. This in and of itself is already an unbeatablw quality if you ask me. the fact that you can run it off of almost anything just sweetens the deal.

So i recently got back into Printing and this kinda was a tedious task that made it much more fun. I dont print often but now i have a way to do it without switching sd cards and spending money on a new piece of Hardware that might become obsolete in 5 to 10 years. I just wish there was more support for it. I would like to post my results whever i get some time (maybe also in 5 years) but I did mine using an old Oneplus 6 and an Ender 3 Pro 1.5v (4.2.2) Marlin 2.1.x. I learned a lot about more about the printer and code and i feel a little more satisfied with myself now that its almost finished.

Strangely negative review considering how ridiculously little this unit cost.

Professional should mean = Just prints out of the box, is incredibly reliable, profiles are 100% tuned in (your a business and you don't have countless hours to spend messing about), should be fast (for quick prototyping or selling parts), have easy to use comprehensive manuals, super fast delivery of spares (having a broken machine will impact your business).

there is a much easier method i use is by chroming with chemical spray if you can do a video on it i can help

A bit late to the party, but thank you for the video, I've been out of 3D printing for a while but I want to get back in and since I will print mostly functional parts, I will buy a few different sized nozzle with whatever printer I buy.

Our house is brutally dry 13% in the winter months. Is that dry enough or should I still consider a dry box?

The Easy Threed printers are not a POS! It's how I got into 3D Printing and it works very well for a first-time machine! I printed MANY useful things and not so useful things. They are GREAT starter machines! The sample PLA is pretty lousy so get the better stuff.

well thought out vid; thanks mate